|Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly|
|Used a plotter to cut/draw rib patterns from paint mask|
|Made holders true and clamped in place.|
|Time for the evaluation photo.|
|Panels laid up w/glass, arced at edge.|
|SFT's in place, w/homemade clamps.|
|A view from the back before glassing.|
|All SFT's in place, time to add glass.|
|Top flanges trimmed.|
|Top side flanges done & trimmed & temporary center brace.|
|Bottom Flanges complete. Top flanges scuffed for top skins.|
|Top skins bonded|
|Post Cured skins,|
|Bottom skins prepped.|
|Bottom skins bonded.|
|HS flipped for rear spar prep.|
|Spar forms in place.|
|Ready for the multiple BID lay-ups and hinge pad reinforcements.|
Leading edge glass.
In hindsight should have used peel ply for top, bottom and leading edge.
Temporary post curing oven.
Made an A frame oven with Celotex and aluminum duct tape.
Note on the heater. An appliance parts outlet has hi-temp breakers (normally used for clothes dryers) for 170 degrees. I will probably add one for a measure of safety later.
This is my new heating source. I opened up the unit and removed the
hi-temp override and slightly bent the thermostat contact plates so it
wouldn't kick off until reaching a higher temp.
CAUTION!!!. By removing the override breaker, the heater will continue to heat - most likely beyond the plastic housing melting point. (I did get it soft once) Use extreme caution and monitor it closely.
|I tested the heater in a large card board box to get an approximate thermostat range. I worked well.|