| Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly | |
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Used a plotter to cut/draw rib patterns from paint mask |
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Made holders true and clamped in place. |
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Time for the evaluation photo. |
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Panels laid up w/glass, arced at edge. |
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Rib Sander |
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SFT's in place, w/homemade clamps. |
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A view from the back before glassing. |
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All SFT's in place, time to add glass. |
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Top flanges trimmed. |
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Top side flanges done & trimmed & temporary center brace. |
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Bottom Flanges complete. Top flanges scuffed for top skins. |
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Top skins bonded |
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Post Cured skins, |
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Bottom skins prepped. |
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Bottom skins bonded. |
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HS flipped for rear spar prep. |
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Spar forms in place. |
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Ready for the multiple BID lay-ups and hinge pad reinforcements. |
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Glassing top |
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Glassing Bottom. |
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Leading edge glass. In hindsight should have used peel ply for top, bottom and leading edge. |
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Temporary post curing oven.
Made an A frame oven with Celotex and aluminum duct tape. Note on the heater. An appliance parts outlet has hi-temp breakers (normally used for clothes dryers) for 170 degrees. I will probably add one for a measure of safety later. |
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This is my new heating source. I opened up the unit and removed the
hi-temp override and slightly bent the thermostat contact plates so it
wouldn't kick off until reaching a higher temp.
CAUTION!!!. By removing the override breaker, the heater will continue to heat - most likely beyond the plastic housing melting point. (I did get it soft once) Use extreme caution and monitor it closely. |
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I tested the heater in a large card board box to get an approximate thermostat range. I worked well. |