Wings,  part 1 (click on image to enlarge)

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Center spar section made in two days with help from Steve Rahm during an assist visit.  It turned out beautifully.

Pultruded carbon rods for the caps.

Here's how the ends were finished off.

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Center section with phenolic embedded and sandwiched between lay-ups. 

 Right main spar inner bid and caps in.  It still needs to be filled and phenolic attachments added and out BID.  Left spar completed, both filled and wrapped.
Ribs being bonded to main spar. Rear spar fitted.
Used backless SFT's, no duct tape, instead used peel-ply on the side under the foam.  The aluminum tape was used to keep the glass from sagging on the underside. Resulting flanges Here's a new method of putting on one side of the skins I picked up from Steve Rahm. Using a straight edge to hold up the skins, then tacking then in place with CA.
The clamped straight stock gets an 1/8" spacer (two popsicle sticks) to drop the panel past the ribs - for sanding flush later. Cut the holes for the aileron push tube. Cut phenolic plates and fitted and prepared for landing gear attachment.
Left stub wing, flanges for closing. Radiator in place with plumbing. Aileron push tube routing.
Access hole for radiator plumbing. Push tube through landing gear support.. Aileron idler at end of stub wing.  Will get a support block soon.
Outer rib of stub wing. Wing root. Idler support.
Stub wing about done, about ready for top skins and access panels.  I used 1/2" plastic tubing as a housing to run the brake lines in case they ever need to be replaced. Here's where the 1/2" tubing exits near the gear leg. Spar leveled, triple check and drilled.
Rib on spar. Ribs marked with popsicle marking jig. To keep tension on the lacing cord,  I had help from my 2x4 friend.
Leading edge ribs shaped. Left wing ribs shaped. Here's an alternate way to attach the bottom skins without making the flanges first.  Saves a little time and weight
Using a long straight edge with 1/8" thick spacers,  hold he skins in place, the tack with CA glue. Move the straight edge along and keep tacking on the top side. Leave them hang so they can be trimmed, then individually hold them up and tack with CA for the remaining 5 inches.
Skins trimmed, scuffed and prepped for BID BID placed in each box. Underside before sanding.
Attached aft ribs Then skins with CA using a long straight edge as a guide. Not bad.
View of root wing box. Skins trimmed and rear spar tacked in place. Leading edge foamed.
Flipped wing.  Approximate weight was 30-40lbs at this point.  Mark guide ribs at 10 percent increments. Used a long sanding board and followed matching increment on root and outboard rib.
More sanding, rounded over all sharp edges. Rear spar attachment.

Spar dug out, prepped for glassing.

This was a low spot on a panel.  I encircle it with aluminum tape, then used two-part urethane foam with some 4 mil plastic to pat it down. It worked well.

  Left wing sand, ribs cores dug out, and spar cleaned up to be glassed. Leading edge joggle.
Left wing glassed. Drilled small holes on level line where pins (finish nails) were used to support a straight edge. Then a SmartTool level was used to level both ends during the cure. Left wing re-installed. Right wing leading edge foamed and sanded.
Right wing sanded, rib cores dug out and spar cleaned up. Right wing micro'd and glassed. Shows where glass intersections cross at spar.
Leading edges trimmed.   Ribs marked and scuffed for flanges.
Use a Laser level to mark the aileron tube placement. Holes cut. Actually checked with a string.